The Basics of Alpha Hydroxy & Beta Hydroxy Acids

Are you on the quest for brighter, smoother skin (honestly, who isn’t)? Then you need to start incorporating acids into your daily skin care regimen. Acids exfoliate your dull dead skin and fade those stubborn acne spots off your pretty little face.

There are many at home over the counter products you can use that are effective and many more that are mere gimmicks. But before I get into products, let’s get you familiar with a few acids and what they do. I’ve outlined some basic “what you need to know” facts to get your foot in the door.

So, come join me on an acid trip journey!!

The two main categories we are delving into today are Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids.

AHA- Alpha Hydroxy Acids- work by exfoliating dry dead skin and leaving behind bright, radiant new skin (cue dreamy photoshopped skin commercial). AHAs, are derived from foods ie Glycolic acid (sugar cane), Lactic acid (milk), Citric acid (citrus fruits). Today the focus will be on the gem of the AHA family, Glycolic acid. 

• As far as Glycolic acid is concerned, size does matter and bigger isn’t always better. The acid’s small size makes it the most potent of all the AHA because its actually able to penetrate the skin to its deeper layers.
  • What it does:
    •  reduce fine lines by increasing cell turnover
    • reduce hyperpigmentation (I’m looking at you acne marks)
    • increase collagen production 
    • minimizes appearances of pores
    • exfoliates  for even skin tone

BHA- Beta Hydroxy Acid- work on the skin’s surface by exfoliating, similar to its cousin AHA but it also works inside the pores because it is oil soluble. Extracted from the bark and brush of willow trees, this acid is used in routine skin care products from face wash to lotions. This acid is one you’re most familiar with too…Salicylic Acid. That’s right, the same ingredient you’ve been using since those red, angry squatters came to claim your face.

• Salicylic Acid=BHA. My friends meet the bane of clogged pores, bumps and whiteheads/blackheads.  
  • What it does
    •  oil soluble, meaning if you have oily skin, the acid is able to get inside your pores to clear out all the goopy gunk from your pores!
    • reduces hyper-pigmentation
    • anti-inflammatory properties
    • on the gentle side when compared to Glycolic acid. 
  • So, I know what you’re thinking, this acid is a joke. You’ve tried it already in numerous face washes, treatment gels, lotions and it has yet to produce these magical results I claim. The reason is simple, pH, don’t worry, I won’t start a chemistry lecture!  The pH of a product influences the efficacy of the active ingredient, in this case our acids. Were those acne face washes you used religiously as a teen a waste? Probably -__- … Most over the counter products are not formulated to the correct pH for these acids to optimally work.  AHA operates at a pH range of  3.0- 4.0, while BHA likes to hang out at a range of 3.0-3.5.  Unfortunately, skin care brands are not expected to post the pH level of products and without actually breaking out pH strips you won’t know.

So, now that you’re getting used to the idea that acids are used to help your skin look your best, hop over to my product reviews to see my favorite AHA and BHA products.

PSA: P L E A S E wear sunscreen at all times once you start on products containing these potent ingredients (and no the spf 15 in your makeup does not count). Reminder these are exfoliants, bringing new skin to the surface, and it needs to be protected.

Thanks for reading!